WHERE DO YOU DRAW THE LINE WHEN YOU'RE A CURLY-HAIRED GIRL?

“Having naturally curly hair is a true treasure” – most people would say. 

“How do you tame it, detangle it, style it so it doesn’t go in every direction” – and a dozen more questions like these come from about 50% of the owners of said treasure. 

Winning the genetic lottery with naturally curly hair is, in a way, hitting the jackpot. But without a deep understanding of its quirks, knowing your individual needs, finding the right care routine, and a few handy tricks – that prize comes with some unwanted side effects. Think dryness and breakage, excess frizz, struggles with detangling, styling, and just getting it to look the way you want. 

To avoid all of that, your curls’ demands need to be met – like it or not. And how to do it at the highest level? That’s exactly what we’re here for. 

Let’s start from the beginning. In other words – the differences and the specifics. 

The answer to “why does curly hair need a completely different care routine than straight hair?” lies in its structure. By nature, it’s more porous, has a coarser texture, less natural shine, and lower keratin (protein) levels. Add to that the reduced delivery of moisture and sebum to the ends due to the hair’s twisting shape – and what you often get is unruly, frizzy, dry hair that’s prone to moisture loss, breakage, and split ends. 

Clearly, a special kind of care is needed here. One that fills those gaps and gives your curls everything they’re missing. 

But structure isn’t the only thing that matters. Curls come in different types: waves, coils, zigzags, ringlets, spirals and more. And depending on your curl type, the specifics of your care routine will vary. 

Ideally, the products you choose should be tailored to a few key factors: your curl pattern, scalp condition, hair porosity, and level of damage. 

Based on wave pattern and curl diameter, there are three main groups – and you can figure out which one you belong to right at home. 

The first is wavy hair. 

Relatively straight at the roots with a light wave from the ears down to the ends. Not fully straight, but not fully curly either. It comes in three subtypes: 

• barely-there waves (2A); 

• more defined S-shaped waves (2B);

• clearly visible, pronounced waves (2C). 

The second is curly hair. 

Defined by clearly shaped curls and usually more volume than wavy hair. It’s thick, with a fairly coarse texture. Curl types include: 

• defined S-shaped curls (3A); 

• small-circumference springy spirals (3B); 

• the tightest circumference, corkscrew-like curls (curly-coily) (3C). 

The third group is afro-textured hair, also known as kinky hair. 

Perfectly tight coils and high-volume hair. It’s coarse to the touch and tends to shrink significantly. Subtypes include: 

• dense S-shaped coils (4A); 

• tightly coiled zigzag curls without a defined pattern (4B);

• the densest curl type, which can shrink up to 50% of its length when dry (4C). 

Now that you’ve identified your curl type, let’s talk about the essential steps of your care routine and what to pay attention to. 

Step one – cleansing. 

There’s no special shampooing technique exclusive to curly hair. But there are a few things worth keeping in mind for the health of your curls. 

Ditch the sulfates. Sure, they’re great at removing buildup and creating a rich lather – but for your curls, they can be a real test of endurance. Hair that’s already prone to dryness struggles even more to retain moisture under the regular influence of sulfates. 

Hydrate and nourish. As mentioned, the natural structure of curly hair makes moisture and intensive nourishment the top priority of your routine. So it’s a great idea to look for shampoos that include ingredients that do exactly that. 

Don’t skip double cleansing. Using shampoo twice in one wash is a good rule for any hair type – but for curly hair, it’s especially important. The first round removes surface-level buildup, while the second focuses on a thorough scalp cleanse. A gentle fingertip massage during this step doesn’t hurt either. Just keep those nails out of it. 

Wash only when needed. Cleanse your hair and scalp only when it’s actually necessary – as it gets dirty. Daily washing is a hard no. Otherwise, your hair can become dry, unruly, and excessively frizzy. 

Section and cleanse. If you have long curly hair, washing it in separate sections is recommended to prevent damage and tangling. 

Try co-washing. If your hair struggles more than most with dryness and moisture loss, and regular shampoos are making things worse – give co-washing a try. It’s a game-changing cleansing method developed specifically for curly hair, using a single gentle product: a cleansing conditioner. 

Step two – conditioning after every wash. 

When choosing a conditioner, pay close attention to moisturizing and nourishing ingredients: plant-based oils (olive, coconut, argan, etc.), hyaluronic acid, ceramides, aloe. Silicones, on the other hand, are better avoided – they can coat the hair shaft and block natural moisture absorption. 

Quick tip: for better results, apply conditioner not just to the ends but throughout the length, starting about 2 inches from the roots. 

Not strictly mandatory, but highly recommended – a hair mask. 

At least once a week. Look for formulas that moisturize, nourish with essential microelements, restore, improve elasticity and curl definition, and strengthen the hair. 

Don’t skip leave-in care. 

Choose your format based on personal preference: cream, serum, oil, or spray. As you wish. As for function, focus on hydration, nourishment, detangling, frizz control, and restoration. 

Styling is a non-negotiable step for curly hair. 

If you’re just looking to enhance your curl pattern or boost definition, a curl-specific mousse or cream will do the trick. The golden rule: lightweight formulas, applied in thin layers, evenly distributed throughout. Volumizing products and alcohol-based formulas? Leave those on the shelf. 

And the last step – but absolutely not the least important – protection. 

Curly hair has a complicated relationship with heat. So whenever you do use a blow dryer or styling tools, heat protectant is non-negotiable. And don’t forget protection from the sun, cold weather, and salt water – hats and UV-protective products are your friends. 

Now – a few key tips to keep your curls not just healthy, but bouncy, strong, and actually manageable. 

Minimize heat styling. Prolonged heat exposure alters the proteins that hold your curl pattern together, distorting and damaging the hair structure. When you need to dry your hair, swap the blow dryer for a diffuser. 

Be gentle when detangling. Always start from the ends and work your way up with light, careful movements. Use a detangling product to make the process easier. 

Choose your towel wisely. Swap regular terrycloth for microfiber or cotton. And never rub your hair dry after washing – gently blot it instead. 

Only brush your hair when it’s wet. Work from ends to roots, in separate sections, using a wide-tooth comb. 

Pay attention to your hair’s porosity. Take one strand and run your fingers from the tip up toward the root. If it feels smooth – porosity is low and basic hydration is enough. If it feels rough and uneven – porosity is higher than normal, meaning your routine should also include protein-based products. 

Try the pineapple method. Gather your hair into a loose high ponytail on top of your head using a silk scrunchie and leave it overnight. A lifesaver for mornings when your curls look like they’ve been trying to reach outer space. 

Style using the plopping method. Designed specifically for curly hair, it helps create a more defined, bounce, and manageable curl pattern: 

1. Wash your hair as usual. 

2. Let it air dry until it’s still damp but no longer dripping. 

3. Flip your head upside down and gently scrunch your curls upward with your palms. You can apply a small amount of leave-in or styling product to your hands first. 

4. Wrap your hair inside a microfiber towel or a plain cotton t-shirt. Secure it tightly so the curls stay in place. 

5. Remove after 15-20 minutes, gently distribute your curls with your palms, and let them finish drying naturally or with a diffuser. 

Yes, winning the curly hair lottery isn’t always easy. Sometimes it’s genuinely hard. But getting to know your hair’s individual quirks and needs, understanding the core principles of curly hair care, and actually working with your curls instead of against them – that’s what turns you from a reluctant participant into a real winner. 

So, after putting all these tips into practice – where do you stand? Team curl, or still on the fence?